Cocky Leeky is a very old recipe from the British Isles–and could not be simpler. (The name refers to the fact that roosters were used for making chicken soup since egg-laying hens were much too valuable back in the days when this combination was first created–probably the 6th or 7th century). It is wonderful with “store-bought” leeks, even better with those grown by our local farmers, and divine when made with leeks from your own garden. Such is the power of home grown food!
The following recipe comes from the cookbook Soup & Bread, A Country Inn Cookbook by Crescent Dragonwagon, the inn’s owner and chef. (Yes, that is her real name, but that’s another story you can read on her website.)
Cocky Leeky
The author’s note with this recipe: “The first time people eat this they are startled: what is that black thing on the bottom of the bowl? That, my dear, is a prune, and yes, it does belong there. Try this soup once and you’ll become a convert.” Serves 4 to 6
6 to 8 prunes, one for each serving
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon mild vegetable oil, such as corn or peanut
1 large onion, finely diced
3 to 4 leeks (more if using small, young leeks), white part only, split open lengthwise, well washed and thinly sliced
2 quarts chicken stock
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 tablespoon Garlic Oil, optional (see note below)
The night before you plan to make the soup put the prunes in a small bowl and pour boiling water to cover over them. Let them soak overnight.
Next day, in and 8-9-inch skillet, heat the butter and oil together over medium-low heat. Add the onion and leeks and cook slowly until very limp and well browned. Take your time so as not to burn the tender vegetables; 30 minutes or so is fine. Much of the flavor is given by the browning-to-the-point-of-nearly-caramelization of the onion and leeks.
In a soup pot, bring the chicken stock to a boil. Scoop out a ladleful, and pour it over the onions and leeks to deglaze the pan, scraping up all the lovely bits of brown off the bottom. Add the pan contents to the remainder of the stock. Turn down the heat to medium-low and let simmer, partially covered, 30 minutes. Taste for seasoning, adding salt and pepper. Serve with very good bread and butter.
Note: If your stock had a good flavor, the soup will be perfect as is, if it’s at all pallid, add garlic oil. Simply buzz ¼ cup olive oil and 6 garlic cloves together in a mini food processor or blender until an almost smooth paste is formed. Store, covered, in the refrigerator, in a glass jar, no longer than seven days. Do Not store at room temperature, since garlic and oil are prone to botulism if left at room temperature.